Originally made this on LL, didnโt get much traction. But then I started using it basically as a wiki to keep track of links and whatnot as Iโm learning. Then I got worried about LL dying some day (the day is coming) and Marcelโs decree that it has a standing DNR order. So I wanted to move things here because sweet Tiko would never let us die like that right Tiko.
I love my โnewโ car (bought it used), but the audio blows. So Iโm trying to make it better. Unbeknownst to me car audio is magnitudes more complicated than I expected because the radios are so tightly integrated with the carโs operating system these days. Plus Iโm a complete novice at this stuff so Iโm definitely gonna fuck things up I just hope I donโt explode anything. Hereโs a bunch of links Iโm keeping track of here for future reference: Speaker replacement threads
Informative posts about the OEM Amp
Information about line output converters (LOCs)
Accessing the rear deck
VideosMisc equipment
โง Edited by Dylar at 2021-05-26 14:43:412021-05-26 14:43 |
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Issues to bring up with the dealer next time Iโm in for servicing:
โ Thus far I have successfully disconnected the ANC module that was buried in the dash. I managed to only break one clip pulling off the panels. The hardest part honestly pulling the fucking plug out (didnโt realize there was a release button on it because of how itโs oriented lol). I think this alone helped but itโs still very anemic, particularly in the lower registries. Planning on adding a better sub soon. I donโt want a โsub in a boxโ in my trunk, I want something that fits in the space where the current shitty sub is at so it fires into the cabin. Trying to figure out if I need a LOC to an amplifier to the sub, or if just dropping in a replacement sub speaker and using the existing wiring will be enough. Either way Iโll probably do that first since itโs easiest and the LOC stuff makes my brain hurt a little bit (Iโm not totally sure what the advantage of this would be given the signal to the existing sub is already crossed over and amplified as far as I can tell). I also tried turning off a mysterious โPSโ option in the audio settings via a developer menu but I donโt think that did shit. To get to the developer menu hold Home+Power+Source for 6 seconds until beep, tap Detail Information & Setting (lower option) on the screen, then hold Home for 6 second until beeps again, select Audio Setting, then turn off PS Setting option. There looks to be some fun non-audio related shit in that developer menu iโll probably play around with some day โ Oh another dumb thing I did in the head unit that I honestly think helped was turning off the volume compensation function that would increase volume at higher (louder) speeds. Also turned off some weird processing called Neural Surround. As Iโm learning more about how this all works itโs more frustrating they didnโt engineer it in a more upgrade-friendly manner and simultaneously obviously didnโt put a lot of effort into the system. Like Honda please just pay one of the big audio engineering companies to outfit you cars with a decent audio system. Everyone hates your audio systems. The radio interfaces with the oem external amplifier via an RS485 connection and as far as I can tell nobody has reverse engineered it or is marketing a harness to connect to it. It maybe wouldnโt matter if they had because now a day a lot of other inputs come in and get mixed into the radio audio signals via the external amplifier (things like chimes, warning sounds, navigation voice alerts, etc). So because of that we have to use the lines coming out of the amplifier, not before it. Which is theory shouldnโt be too big of a problem even though there are literally 10 discreet channels coming out of this thing (because there are 10 speakers โ 2 front tweeters, 2 front woofers, one front center, 2 rear tweeters, 2 rear woofers, 1 rear subwoofer). In theory you takes these lines, feed them through something called a LOC (line output converter) to convert the signals back into a โpreampโ type signal that you THEN send to your own amp and then out to the speakers from there. Itโs more complicated than that (and the wiring sounds like a fucking nightmare), but thatโs the gist I think. However the more I learn about this, the bigger a pain in the ass it is because apparently Honda has โaggressively EQโdโ these signals. From what I can tell this means they have manipulated the signals in such a way to try and compensate for natural nulls that result from the interior structure/architecture of the cabin (i.e., soundwaves bouncing off the interior at certain frequencies nullify each other causing it to sound weaker than it should). but apparently they did a real shitty job of it and there are a bunch of nulls anyway. Also you can manipulate the timing/phases to optimize the audio depending on precisely where your head is located in the cabin (i.e. depending on your height and seat positioning). And also there are crossovers and rolloffs to consider in which only certain frequency ranges are sent to the various speakers depending on their frequency response curves (and again, apparently they did really weird shit with this like crossing the tweeters over insanely high). So basically that means not only will I need LOCs and an amplifier, Iโll probably also need a DSP to unfuck all these timing/frequency issues. And not only that you have to know how to set the DSP up and that takes specialized equipment to make the right measurements I think. โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-31 15:42:532020-12-31 15:42 |
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WheelsMy car came with 19โ (i think?) wheels. Iโve never had fancy rims before and I kind of hate them, I donโt like the look. plus iโve learned theyโre super heavy (not a fancy alloy) and bog down the car and supposedly are louder than normal wheels. also the rims stick out further than the tires and many people (including myself within the first week or ownership) โcurb rashโ the passenger side rims when parking tight against a curb. I did like twice before I even realized what I did and have since done it like 2 more times because iโm a stupid idiot. anyway I havenโt decided if iโll take them to a wheel shop to fix the curb rashes (probably not worth it) or just get less obnoxious, quieter wheels/tires.
Question
โง Edited by Dylar at 2021-01-26 14:37:282021-01-26 14:37 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-31 15:41:222020-12-31 15:41 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-31 15:41:422020-12-31 15:41 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-30 14:53:442020-12-30 14:53 |
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May change the torque mount with the kind that comes with the 6 speed manual transmission. Supposedly stiffens things up and makes the car more responsive. Saw a yt video by Honda Jon about this Sway bar? โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-17 15:06:212020-12-17 15:06 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-30 14:50:012020-12-30 14:50 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-30 14:49:282020-12-30 14:49 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-31 15:40:562020-12-31 15:40 |
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โง Edited by Dylar at 2020-12-29 14:45:252020-12-29 14:45 |
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Other Misc ModificationsGeneral threads
Puddle & ambient lights
Splash Guards (Mud Flaps)
Window visorsTrunk handle
Roof spoiler
Trunk Spoiler
Chrome-delete
DashcamHeadlights
Heated steering wheelHad it in my old car and really enjoyed it. Might be something I could do on my own, although I can also imagine my steering wheel coming off the steering column and dying.
Seats
โง Edited by Dylar at 2021-01-09 19:03:472021-01-09 19:03 |
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Documentation/Maintenance
Updating Navigation SystemMaintenance Minder servicing items
โง Edited by Dylar at 2021-05-26 14:49:222021-05-26 14:49 |
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